When one speaks of Sicilian wines, Nero d’Avola is the first name that comes to mind. The undisputed king of the island’s oenology, this red grape variety has conquered palates the world over with its power, structure and longevity. Yet, Sicilian wine-growing is a far more complex and varied mosaic, a treasure trove of biodiversity that offers equally fascinating and noteworthy alternatives. Among these, a place of honour belongs to Frappato, an indigenous grape variety from south-eastern Sicily that yields elegant, fresh and fragrant wines, a unique and unmistakable expression of its terroir of origin.
Origins and History: An Ancient Victorian Tradition
The origins of Frappato are lost in the mists of time. There are no certain documents attesting to its origin, but it is believed to be an indigenous Sicilian grape variety, cultivated for centuries in the Vittoria area, in the province of Ragusa. Its name may derive from the dialect term ‘frappatu’, meaning ‘fruity’, a clear reference to its intense aromatic notes.
According to another hypothesis, the name could refer to the shape of the bunch, which is particularly jagged, hence ‘friccicarieddu’ or ‘friccicari’, meaning ‘sparkling’. Other sources, on the other hand, link it to the term ‘irruppatu’, which describes the sudden and unexpected arrival, like the fast ripening of the grapes.
The history of Frappato is inextricably linked to that of the city of Vittoria, founded in 1607 by Countess Vittoria Colonna Henriquez-Cabrera. The noblewoman, in order to encourage the colonisation of the territory, offered plots of land to the new inhabitants, with the condition that at least half of it be cultivated as vineyards. This favoured the spread of viticulture and, in particular, of Frappato, which found its ideal habitat in this area.
Vine Characteristics and Growing Area: A Delicate Soul
Frappato is a red grape variety characterised by a thin, pruinose, blue-purple skin. The bunches are medium-sized, cylindrical or conical, winged and fairly compact. The leaves are medium-large, pentagonal and trilobed.
It is a vigorous vine, but with a not very high yield. It prefers calcareous, clayey and sandy soils, well drained and with good exposure to the sun. The hot, dry climate of south-eastern Sicily, mitigated by sea breezes, is ideal for its ripening.
The cultivation area par excellence for Frappato is Vittoria, which includes the municipalities of Vittoria, Comiso, Acate, Chiaramonte Gulfi, Santa Croce Camerina and part of the territories of Ragusa, Niscemi, Gela, Caltagirone and Licata, between the provinces of Ragusa, Caltanissetta and Catania. It was here, in 1973, that the DOC Vittoria was born, and in 2005, the DOCG Cerasuolo di Vittoria, the only DOCG in Sicily, which envisages the use of Frappato blended with Nero d’Avola.
Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG: A Perfect Marriage
Cerasuolo di Vittoria is a red wine of great elegance and complexity, made from a blend of Nero d’Avola (50% to 70%) and Frappato (30% to 50%). This combination enhances the characteristics of the two grape varieties: the Nero d’Avola brings structure, body and tannins, while the Frappato gives freshness, finesse and a unique aromatic bouquet.
The name ‘Cerasuolo’ comes from the Sicilian dialect ‘cerasa’, meaning cherry, a reference to the wine’s bright cherry red colour. To the eye, it has a ruby red colour tending to garnet with age. On the nose, it opens with an explosion of fresh red fruit aromas, such as cherry, strawberry, raspberry and pomegranate, accompanied by delicate floral notes of violet and rose and spicy nuances. On the palate, it is fresh and harmonious, with good acidity, soft tannins and a pleasantly persistent finish.
Frappato in Purity: A Surprising Discovery
Although Frappato is traditionally used in the Cerasuolo di Vittoria blend, in recent years an increasing number of producers have begun to vinify it in purity, achieving surprising results. Pure Frappato is a wine of great personality, capable of fully expressing its varietal character and the peculiarities of the terroir.
It has a transparent ruby red colour with violet reflections. On the nose, it is an explosion of fragrant aromas: fresh red fruits such as cherry, wild strawberry and raspberry, floral notes of dog rose and violet, and a characteristic spicy note of black pepper. On the palate, it is a fresh, agile and drinkable wine with vibrant acidity, delicate tannins and a savoury, lingering finish.
Food Pairing: Versatility at the Table
The freshness and versatility of Frappato, both in purity and in Cerasuolo di Vittoria, make it an extremely ductile wine in gastronomic pairings. It is perfect with aperitifs, hors d’oeuvres with cold meats and fresh cheeses, first courses with light sauces, pizzas, white meats, blue fish, tuna and swordfish.
Cerasuolo di Vittoria, thanks to its greater structure, also goes well with more elaborate dishes such as roasts, braised meats and medium-aged cheeses.
Pure Frappato, thanks to its freshness and lightness, is also ideal to be enjoyed slightly chilled (14-16°C), especially during the summer months.
A Vine to Rediscover and Enhance
Frappato represents an oenological heritage of great value, an authentic expression of the Sicilian terroir and a valid alternative to the more noble wines. Its growing popularity among wine enthusiasts and insiders testifies to its quality and potential.
Rediscovering and enhancing indigenous grape varieties such as Frappato means not only preserving biodiversity and wine-growing traditions, but also offering consumers the chance to explore new flavours and discover the incredible richness of the Italian wine scene. Frappato, with its fragrant elegance and versatility, is poised to take its place among the great Italian red wines. A glass of Frappato is a sensory journey into the most authentic Sicily, an invitation to discover the beauty and complexity of an island that never ceases to amaze.